środa, 27 listopada 2013
wtorek, 26 listopada 2013
Christmas Comes to London
Gwyneth Paltrow hosted a dinner party for the Kids Company charity with Matthew Williamson at London's Aqua Shard last night. Gliding among the six tables for a little close-up natter, she told Style.com, "I've been involved in the Kids Company for a while now. It's an incredibly worthy charity—I mean, it's kids after all!"
Founded by Camila Batmanghelidjh , the Kids Company benefits vulnerable inner-city children, and there was a lot of support for the cause in the thirty-first-floor restaurant overlooking all of London. Arizona Muse , Joan Burstein , Caroline Issa , and Williamson's new design director, Danielle Scutt, tucked into a three-course meal and admired the soaring Williamson-curated Christmas tree laden with baubles created by the likes of Sienna Miller, Mary J. Blige, Zaha Hadid, and Paltrow herself. The ornaments will be auctioned off on eBay, beginning December 2, with the proceeds going directly to the charity. "Thanks, all of you, for coming out and supporting us," Batmanghelidjh said during her speech. "And when you leave, please take a bit of our kids' hearts with you."
—Afsun Qureshi
The Long Walk to Oscar
"Three weeks after Nelson Mandela got out [of prison in South Africa], Robert De Niro and I brought him to the Tribeca Film Festival, and we thought he would talk about politics, but instead he said that on Thursday nights at Robben Island, the one thing he did was watch movies," Harvey Weinstein said last night before the Cinema Society's screening of Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom. "He talked about Eddie Murphy's films, Bob De Niro's films, Oliver Stone's movies, some of my movies—it was the most incredible thing for those of us in the industry, and I have never forgotten the story about Thursday nights."
Weinstein was joined at the Ziegfeld Theater by his cohosts for the Burberry-sponsored evening, U2 (who unveiled their first new material in three years, a song called "Ordinary Love," for the film) and Anna Wintour; the film's stars, Idris Elba and Naomie Harris ; as well as Mandela's daughter, ambassador Zenani Mandela-Dlamini .
"This man, also known as Dad, really turned our life upside down, or right-side-up rather," said Bono . "We have been working for him since we were teenagers, so we just didn't want to blow it. Our song is a complicated love song about a very complicated story." Elba, who plays Mandela, didn't have the good fortune of meeting the world leader. "I watched his body language and how people reacted to him, and that's how I learned about his essence," said the actor, who was in Burberry. "Also, I learned he was very choosy about the types of suits he wore—they made almost five hundred different suits for me for the film."
—Kristin Studeman
poniedziałek, 25 listopada 2013
piątek, 22 listopada 2013
Two Museums, Two Parties
Zadig & Voltaire's Cecilia Bonstrom and Thierry Gillier invited a few friends to the Guggenheim last night for the rare privilege of a private viewing of the new Christopher Wool exhibition, followed by dinner. The opportunity for a leisurely stroll through the rotunda sans crowds was enough to draw the likes of Olivier Zahm , Vito Schnabel , and a late-arriving Lindsay Lohan way uptown. Even better, the museum's strict no-cameras rule was suspended for the evening, a situation Dannijo's Danielle and Jodie Snyder made the most of. "This one will make a great Instagram," said Danielle before ushering her sister over to a stenciled floral work. Smile for the camera-phone!
Across the park, the photographers were in overdrive, with Tina Fey and Lorne Michaels chairing the American Museum of Natural History's annual gala. There was a lot of star power in the room—Seth Meyers , Baz Luhrmann , Karlie Kloss , and Mayor Bloomberg included. Florence and the Machine performed. But the evening's biggest get was Josh Hutcherson , aka Peeta Mellark, taking a break from Catching Fire.
—Todd Plummer
czwartek, 21 listopada 2013
The Past Is Prologue
"I love the name César. It's so grand, non?" proclaimed Alber Elbaz during last night's party at New York's Luxembourg & Dayan gallery. He was referring to the late Nouveau Realist artist César Baldaccini (known simply as César, à la Madonna), whom Lanvin has honored with a trio of projects: an installation of his work in the windows of its Paris flagship, a "chic picnic" earlier this year, and yesterday evening's intimate gathering that saw friends of the house gather to admire three floors of the artist's compressions and sculptures. Equally "grand" was César's giant, phallic thumb piece, which greeted guests outside the gallery's entrance upon their arrival.
Elbaz explained that he first encountered César's work at Le Crillon, in Paris. "The bar there was designed by César," he offered. "I ate there for ten years, and that's where I gained all my weight, so I thought we'd better do something about it, and here we are," he said. Gallerist Daniella Luxembourg , however, saw a different link between César and the designer. "They are both great artists. They are both unique, and they're not afraid of attacking their materials," she said, adding that César was "very much in favor" of working with fashion houses and had collaborated with Nina Ricci, Hermès, and Chanel during his career. Lanvin's menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver , too, weighed in on the connection between the house and the sculptor. "There's an element of fantasy in both our work," he said. "What we do at Lanvin is not art. It's applied art. It's clothes, and they're meant to be worn. There are a lot of constraints, but we try to bring a fantasy to make people dream about better things." His favorite piece in the show? "The big finger outside. It's so direct!"
Down on the Bowery, the New Museum threw its annual Next Generation Party in honor of the artists Cyprien Gaillard and Lynette Yiadom-Boakye . After a private dinner in the seventh-floor Sky Room, cochairs Maria Baibakova , Fabiola Beracasa , Massimiliano Gioni, Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld , and Vanessa Traina Snow led guests into the building's signature neon-green elevators, down to the first floor, for an after-party. Whereas other museum fetes draw a more uptown kind of crowd, the New Museum attracts downtown's cool kids. Deejay May Kwok and musician Twin Shadow kept the likes of Alexander Wang , Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea , and Lily Donaldson dancing until well after all the grown-ups had left.
—Katharine K. Zarrella and Todd Plummer
środa, 20 listopada 2013
Chez Alex
Balenciaga's new creative director first carved a name for himself in downtown Manhattan, so, in a way, it makes sense that the house's first retail opening with Alexander Wang at the helm would be in Soho—Mercer Street, to be exact, a section of which was blocked to traffic last night so that the likes of Steven Klein, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele , and Garance Doré could swing through for a first look.
Arms of greenery, studded with white roses and peonies, creep throughout the split-level store; truckloads of veined green marble, installed by Italian specialists, frame the space; and a milk-glass conservatory ceiling creates the illusion of perpetual natural light. Wang explained that he and his talented decorator, Ryan Korban , wanted to channel the leisurely vibe of Cristóbal Balenciaga's salons—"This idea of indulging in the shopping experience," he explained. "What's more luxury than being able to spend all day going through the collection?"
At the new men's store, across the street, the prominent feature of this night was a dinner table, where Wang took a seat next to Julianne Moore . Meanwhile, back in the women's store, Julia Restoin Roitfeld was trying to get her bearings. "I feel like I'm in Paris here—Avenue Montaigne, I think," she declared. She'd be back soon to do some fittings, Restoin Roitfeld added, and would not be bringing friends. "The only people I shop with are my mom or my dad, because they have a true opinion of whether it really suits me or not. Otherwise, I shop alone."
—Darrell Hartman
wtorek, 19 listopada 2013
poniedziałek, 18 listopada 2013
piątek, 15 listopada 2013
Family Affair
A major profile of Dior and Raf Simons, a feature on the fast-ascending Hood by Air line starring Joan Smalls, a spread of photos shot in L.A. by Hedi Slimane, a rare interview with Stefano Pilati—there's more than enough in the latest edition of Style.com/Print to justify a little celebrating. And so editor in chief Dirk Standen gathered the troops and headed down to Tribeca last night, where he hosted a swinging little party at Paul's Baby Grand. (The swinging part owed more than a little something to the very generous support of Absolut Elyx.) "I wish I could say we've been planning this for months, but we pretty much made a spur-of-the-moment decision to do something to thank the people who've supported us, who worked on or appeared in the issue. It's very much friends and family," said Standen. "The whole issue, in a way, is about these self-created families. The Raf story was shot by Willy Vanderperre and Olivier Rizzo, who have been his closest collaborators forever. Shayne [Oliver] and Hood by Air are all about family. And Phillip [Lim] too has surrounded himself with a core of people he trusts. It's very important in fashion, this notion of family."
Issue 05 was the latest raison de fête at Paul Sevigny's raffishly elegant new spot—the tropical-themed lounge was the site of Alexa Chung's 30th birthday bash a week ago. Phillip Lim was at that one, and he was in the house last night as well, straight from a trim. "Actually, I get a haircut every five days," he confessed.
The designer flies to Singapore next week, to speak at the annual Luxury conference hosted by Suzy Menkes, then onward to Beijing, to cut the ribbon at his new shop there. Things are moving along nicely for Lim these days, which is one reason he's profiled in the magazine. Writer Chris Wallace shadowed him last fashion week, pretty much right up to the moment the designer sent the models down the catwalk. "He even came for a drink after, too," Lim noted. A true embedment, then.
Meanwhile, the likes of Dree Hemingway , Joseph Altuzarra , Saskia de Brauw , and Shayne Oliver , along with his HBA crew, filtered in. Liveried waitstaff installed a disco ball just before the clock struck 9:30, and Public School's Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne claimed a dance area in the corner. It was their first night out since the duo's big CFDA win on Monday night. In the intervening days, they'd been working on Pre-Fall and Fall, slowly returning congratulatory e-mails, and "trying to figure out where to put the flowers," Osborne reported. Will their elevated profile mean more going out, or less? "Probably a little less," Osborne concluded, "because now there's a lot harder work ahead." Take it from us, gents: You seize the disco-ball moments when you can.
—Darrell Hartman
When in Shanghai
And here we thought six collections a year was a lot. Valentino's Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli jetted to Shanghai this week to celebrate a new David Chipperfield-designed store for the brand (the second largest, after Milan), but not before they designed a special collection of ready-to-wear and couture confections for the opening. And seventh collection or not, they didn't skimp. The show that followed yesterday's ribbon-cutting and traditional lion-dance ceremony had no less than eighty-two looks, and it was followed by an opera performance by Italian soprano Elisa Balbo . Phoning in from the International Cruise Terminal venue, Piccioli called it a manifesto. "We focused on red, because it is like a logo for Valentino and because it is so integral to Chinese culture." Chiuri continued, "There's not just glam Valentino red; there's also fragile red, romantic red, rock, regal, and monastic." They capped off their trip with a signing event at Lane Crawford for Valentino: Objects of Couture. The book gathers together specially commissioned images—by photographers such as David Bailey, Nobuyoshi Araki, and Philip-Lorca diCorca—of Chiuri and Piccioli's accessories for Valentino. Then it was back to Rome, where their Pre-Fall, menswear, and Haute Couture collections remain to be finished.
—Nicole Phelps
czwartek, 14 listopada 2013
The Good Fight
Talk about uptown institutions: Carolina Herrera partnered with Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center for the hospital's annual fall party last night. The very swish proceedings went down at the Four Seasons Restaurant, where the designer added some extra decorative touches (striped seat cushions, bouquets of red roses) to the place's storied Pool Room. Herrera outfitted more than a few guests, too, including the swan-necked likes of Emilia Fanjul Pfeifler and Indre Rockefeller.
The evening's swirl of "young beauties," as Herrera called them, also included her daughter, Patricia Lansing , who glided up the stairs in a backless, sable-collared dress. "Business in the front, party in the back," Lansing joked.
The evening's fund-raising focused on the center's pediatrics department—specifically, the battle it is waging against sarcoma. When the floor opened up for $25,000 donations, five hands shot up in a matter of about thirty seconds.
Designer Misha Nonoo was mixing it up for the third evening in a row—she'd been up for a CFDA award on Monday, then out with her visiting mother on Tuesday. "We had lots of wine," she said. And yet Nonoo has been taking 8 a.m. meetings with Theory's head of manufacturing, who's been lending her label a helping hand. Her trick? "I wake up and have a cup of tea immediately—English breakfast," she explained.
Holiday plans were a conversation topic. Herrera will be vacationing in the Dominican Republic, where she's neighbors with Oscar de la Renta. He's been known to play a mean game of dominoes, but Herrera described herself as more of a sunning-and-swimming type. "I don't like dominoes," she said.
—Darrell Hartman
Don't Go for Second Best
Elizabeth von Guttman and Alexia Niedzielski may be based in Europe, but New York is one of their many stomping grounds. Last night, they feted the second issue of their magazine, System, over champagne and canapés at the sprawling Soho loft of David Perry. Launched last spring by von Guttman and Niedzielski, along with former Numéro editor Jonathan Wingfield and Paradis art director Thomas Lenthal, the biannual was under some pretty intense pressure to outdo itself. "The second issue is always more difficult, because the expectations are higher," said von Guttman during the soiree, which drew contributors and fans such as Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele , Julia Restoin Roitfeld , Gaia Repossi , Francisco Costa , and Olivier Theyskens . "We started with a scoop," added Niedzielski, referring to the first issue's post-Balenciaga interview with Nicolas Ghesquière. "So to keep that level of excitement up is always a bit tricky." Considering the team's sophomore offering features not only a Q&A with but also an unsolicited manifesto from Comme des Garçons' Rei Kawakubo, we'd say they didn't do too shabby of a job.
While flipping through System's freshly printed pages, guests were treated to some classical French tunes—sung by the magazine's managing editor, Blake Abbie . And later, between deejay sets, catwalker-cum-crooner Jamie Bochert performed. "I'm going to do four quiet, kind-of-sad songs," the model told us. "Hopefully, I won't put everybody in a bad mood." Quite the contrary. Swathed in a vintage Ossie Clark top and a vampy Marc Jacobs skirt, Bochert enchanted the likes of Anja Rubik (who cuddled on the couch with hubby Sasha Knezevic ) and stylist Melanie Ward (who's featured in the latest issue) with her rich, somber voice. "Only two more sad songs," she announced before breaking in to Mazzy Star's "Fade Into You." "Then we'll go dance." And sure enough, after the applause ended, dance they did.
—Katharine K. Zarrella
środa, 13 listopada 2013
Spheres of Influence
With its vivid palette and painterly prints, Phoebe Philo 's Spring ’14 lineup would have fit right in with the installations in Isa Genzken's retrospective, which, underwritten by Céline, opened with a private viewing at the MoMA last night. "She's radical, and she's hard-core," said Philo of Genzken, who, at 65, is still producing provocative work. "I think more people should know about her." If the fashion set weren't familiar with Genzken before, they certainly are now, as the likes of Sofia Coppola , Gaia Repossi , and Rachel Chandler Guinness all turned out to see the multimedia artist's exhibition. "This is the kind of show that I personally relate to, and find very inspiring," offered Yigal Azrouël. The designer agreed that an unexpected gaggle of mannequins—which were wildly clad in plaids, masks, and cowboy hats, and posed at the exhibit's entrance—deserved their own runway show. "I loved the colors, and I think the beauty of the show is that she doesn't take it too seriously," he added.
Just back from a two-month tour, musician Kim Gordon , too, sang the retrospective's praises—however, she has a more personal connection to the artist. "I met Isa in 1980, when I first moved to New York," recalled Gordon, who recently had a show of her own artwork at White Columns gallery. "She actually took a picture of my ear for a photo series. I think a lot of artists in New York have been influenced by her work." But Genzken isn't the only one doing the influencing around here. Having launched her cult streetwear line, X-Girl, in the nineties, Gordon was surprised to hear that the urban staples were back in style. "It's funny, because it was so basic," she mused. "I was looking at an old X-Girl film we did when it was in my show at White Columns, and it was interesting to see how it still held up, in a way."
Across the river, at Williamsburg's Output nightclub, Creative Time's Anne Pasternak threw a Fall Ball with Ruffian's Brian Wolk and Claude Morais . "We feel like this is Williamsburg's debutante ball, and she has finally come out into society," Wolk said, surveying the packed room. In the crowd were Scott Campbell , Suno's Max Osterweis , and surprise performers Mia Moretti and Caitlin Moe. The last guests to leave trickled out at 1:30. Despite yesterday's cold snap, the line out the door was so long that the party, which raised funds for the public art nonprofit, was extended more than an hour past its official end time. Not bad for a Tuesday night.
—Katharine K. Zarrella and Nicole Phelps
Grand Gestures
Before there was Christian Dior the couturier, there was Dior the gallerist. And while the gallery lasted only six years, before shuttering in 1934, it confirmed Dior's unerring eye. That an unknown artist named Salvador Dali—plus rising stars such as Giacometti, Man Ray, Picasso, Max Ernst, and Cocteau—came to wider public attention was to Dior's credit.
In that spirit, the house of Dior tapped fifteen female artists from all over to interpret Miss Dior, his first fragrance. Natalie Portman , the face of Miss Dior, was on hand last night to tour the exhibition at the Grand Palais, accompanied by Benjamin Millepied , LVMH chief Bernard Arnault, French first lady Valérie Trierweiler, Karl Lagerfeld , Dior president Sidney Toledano , and the U.S. Ambassador Charles Rivkin . "These pieces are incredible," noted Portman. "I loved meeting the artists and hearing about how Dior dedicated his first perfume to his sister, who fought in the Resistance. That all this memory and history is intertwined with the perfume was really moving. It's like creating light after a dark period." Tomoko Shioyasu, Ionna Vautrin, Joana Vasconcelos , and Lara Baladi were among the other artists represented.
As the party heated up, Dior perfumer-creator François Demachy remarked, "I spend my life composing perfumes, so I know how hard it is to speak of them properly. To see artists express the idea of perfume, and Miss Dior in particular, gives me new paths to explore. It's very touching."
—Tina Isaac-Goizé
wtorek, 12 listopada 2013
Women and Girls Rule the World
The twenty-third annual Glamour Women of the Year Awards last night honored a range of women and their accomplishments—from athlete Carissa Moore, for leading the way for women in the world of surfing, to entertainer-turned-activist-turned-everything Barbra Streisand , who received a Lifetime Achievement Award. Iman presented awards to Liya Kebede and Christy Turlington Burns for their work promoting maternal health around the world, and Karlie Kloss introduced Net-a-Porter's Natalie Massenet .
The awards have always been a feel-good night, but this year included some particularly poignant moments, one of which was a surprise performance by the Staten Island PS22 Chorus. They sang a Lady Gaga medley as the pop star took the stage to receive her award. "I was thinking, I'm going to be fine, I'm not going to cry," said Gaga, who is on the cover of the Women of the Year issue. "But then the kids started singing!" She continued: "As fabulous as this evening can feel, true glamour is in the ability to see the grotesque, the sad, and to ask what is really important…. If I could forfeit my cover, I would give it to Malala."
Honoree Malala Yousafzai was the victim of an assassination attempt last year, after standing up to Taliban rule and advocating education for girls. Surviving a gunshot wound to the head has transformed the 16-year-old into a global symbol for the power of peaceful protest. And with Congresswoman Gabby Giffords and Kaitlin Roig-DeBellis , the Sandy Hook Elementary teacher who hid with her students in a bathroom during the shooting last year, also receiving awards, the evening had a strong anti-gun message.
"I believe that a gun has no power at all, because a gun can only kill, but a pen can give life," Yousafzai said with a charisma beyond her years. "Through our struggles, we can bring change."
—Todd Plummer
A Ten for Ten
"Someone's gotta keep starting things in this country, or else where are we gonna be?" pronounced Mike Feldman, the entrepreneur behind Parabellum, at last night's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards. He and Jason Jones , the designer and cofounder of Parabellum, one of the evening's finalists, qualify as outliers on a lineup noteworthy for its relative lack of familiar names, but not even Diane von Furstenberg , the president of the CFDA herself, could've better summed up the guiding principle behind the Fund.
This year's runners-up awards went to jewelry designer Marc Alary and the eveningwear maker Juan Carlos Obando , who was also a finalist back in 2008. The big prize, all $300,000 of it, was picked up by Public School's Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne , the winners of the Swarovski Award for Menswear back in June. Prabal Gurung , for one, was thrilled. "I've known them since the Incubator," he said of his onetime neighbors in the CFDA-subsidized studio space. "They have a unique voice, and they're their own customers. But more important, they're such nice guys. I always feel nice people win."
Chow and Osborne were one of four pairs among the finalists. "It was all about the twos this year," selection committee member Ken Downing , of Neiman Marcus, said earlier. In the end, though, the event was about the power of ten. "This year's Fashion Fund is perhaps even more special than any other, because this is our ten-year anniversary," declared Vogue's Anna Wintour . "The Fashion Fund was born out of a moment of great adversity for young American designers struggling post-9/11. Our intention was both to help them and to establish the next generation of American fashion." Now, $3.8 million and thirty winners and runners-up later, the next generation is thriving. Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez , Derek Lam , and Phillip Lim —Funders all of them—can count themselves as part of the American establishment. But who among them couldn't learn something from Tom Ford ?
The evening's keynote speaker, Ford did not disappoint. After buttering up the crowd with a story about meeting the Vogue editor in chief on a nude beach and leaning in to kiss her good-bye, only to realize, "Oh, my god, I am absolutely naked," he launched into a nearly thirty-minute speech that was short on autobiography and long on designer advice. "You have to love what you do to the point that you can't imagine doing anything else with your life. Otherwise, you need to get out now, and that's not a joke," he began. "Fashion is tougher than all the other arts. We have to design and produce on a relentless, rigorous schedule. We have to have genius creative thoughts precisely four times a year, and on exact dates." Among Ford's tips: "Never sell a controlling interest in your name"; "Know your ideal client, and know your real client—they aren't necessarily the same"; "It's all about the entourage—surround yourself with the right people"; "Have a five-year plan, a ten-year plan…and possibly an exit strategy"; "Believe in what you do"; and, "this is absolutely key—Find a great business partner." To finish, he offered a final piece of advice from his father: "He once told me his secret to staying calm was to remember that we all have it in our power to say, 'Fuck it,' and go to bed. Somehow, the next morning, everything will seem much better."
"I want the transcript," Gurung said later. There's a reason they call Ford "Mr. Hollywood."
—Nicole Phelps
poniedziałek, 11 listopada 2013
All the Rave
Lady Gaga 's Little Monsters will do anything for her. As evidenced by last night's ArtRave launch party for her new album, ARTPOP, they will form a mile-long line down FDR Drive for a ferry to her party at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. They will dress in every conceivable iteration of Gaga costume. And they will know all the lyrics to each new song—before the album even comes out.
A massive Navy Yard warehouse was transformed for the Sunday-night rave with five Jeff Koons statues of Gaga, giant screens playing videos of her performance-art training with Marina Abramovic , and several side rooms filled with images shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin . "Working with Gaga has been the most incredible experience," van Lamsweerde told Style.com. "She is very creative, very generous, and very, very inspiring."
Inez and Vinoodh aren't the only ones to find Gaga stimulating. The happening brought out a range of designers—from Alexander Wang to Gareth Pugh to Hood by Air's Shayne Oliver. Christian Siriano reminisced about how he outfitted Gaga for her first Good Morning America appearance—"before anyone else wanted to dress her!"
Gaga's mother, Cynthia Germanotta, kept spirits high by passing out glow sticks from her purse, but when the artist finally took the stage, at 12:45 a.m., to perform her new album, wearing a face mask reminiscent of Leigh Bowery, she had the room's undivided attention. "It feels so good to be back in New York City!" she said. "Tonight, we're going on a journey…from art to pop and back again."
—Todd Plummer
Words and Pictures
A busy Saturday night on the Upper East Side kicked off with a toast for the artist Clare Rojas at Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld 's eponymous project space. Roitfeld's town house is a pretty hot spot at the moment—the last exhibit was a rare stateside showing of Peter Lindbergh's photographs—so Rojas created several works for the occasion. The artist told Style.com, "I loved honoring a space, letting it dictate the flow and placement of the works. Even though Vladimir seemed relaxed, he was paying attention to every minute detail."
Keeping cool has been Giancarlo Giammetti 's M.O. for decades. At Sotheby's, over on York Avenue, Valentino Garavani and Tobias Meyer hosted a dinner for Private, Giammetti's retrospective photo book. It was the final stop in a long week of signings and parties for Giammetti, and he admitted he was glad it was over: "Very busy, very exciting, but I am very tired!"
As guests sat for dinner, Meyer said, "Tonight is not about the book, it's not about the book at all. It's about a great relationship, a great life, and a great community of friends." Among those who turned up: Marc Jacobs , Riccardo Tisci , Tamara Mellon , and Michael Ovitz.
Humbled by the turnout, Giammetti said, "It was so spectacular to see how New York still welcomes anything that is new. It's a friendly city, a city with curiosity." So will he do another book? "After all this, not anytime soon! And not that kind of book, anyway—perhaps next time, more words than pictures."
—Todd Plummer
piątek, 8 listopada 2013
Upward Spiral
If the Spring ’14 collections are any indication, fashion loves art—but does art love fashion? "I think the two worlds can't quite resist each other!" offered Stella Tennant at the Guggenheim last night, where the creative spheres intersected during the museum's Dior-underwritten annual gala. Hosted by honorary chairs Raf Simons and Dior CEO Sidney Toledano in the Guggenheim's spiraling Frank Lloyd Wright-designed rotunda, the dinner was held in honor of artists James Turrell , whose blockbuster exhibition of light installations attracted over 500,000 visitors earlier this year, and Christopher Wool , whose retrospective is currently on view. "I don't actually know a lot about it," offered Wool of the fashion-art crossover. Turrell, likewise, was genuinely surprised to learn that his work served as the inspiration for Calvin Klein Collection's latest menswear range. "How did that work out?" he chuckled ("Pretty damn well!" we told him).
As the evening progressed and the likes of Natalie Portman , Jessica Biel , Cindy Sherman , and Leelee Sobieski happily mingled between courses of mushroom salad and filet mignon, it seemed that the two worlds (with a dash of Hollywood as a buffer) were getting on famously. Jeff Koons drew parallels between the practices. "Fashion is a curiosity about our internal life and our external world. So are the fine arts—and that's wonderful," he said. Willy Vanderperre, too, felt they were on the same plane. "Fashion and art are both a reflection of the times," he proposed. But it still seems that the fashion types owe the art world quite a debt. "Art is the ultimate inspiration," proclaimed Olivier Rizzo. "It's where designers find their creativity!" concurred Gaia Repossi—who, in addition to crafting jewelry, is a painter herself.
Perhaps the most profound statement, though, came from Raf Simons, who, as Toledano explained, was the driving force behind the Dior-Guggenheim partnership. "It all started with art for me when I was 15 or 16," said the designer. "Jan Hoet, a famous Belgian curator from a city close to where I lived, curated Documenta when I was a kid, and that left a massive mark. It awakened my interest very strongly," he recalled. "But it's not just that art plays a role in my creative process. Art is the ultimate. I couldn't really live without it." That may be true, but after watching last night's gaggle of Dior-clad women float across the floor in their often embellished, sculptural gowns, we'd have to argue that Mr. Simons is at least a bit of an artist himself.
—Katharine K. Zarrella
The CFDA Goes Pop
You know it's not going to be your standard cocktail party when Diane von Furstenberg kicks things off with a roll call. "I suggest that members identify themselves," she said last night at a get-together honoring the CFDA's newest crop hosted by the designer Lisa Perry . "So everyone will know who you are!" It was a good idea on DVF's part—with thirty-two entrants this year, everyone benefited from the rundown.
"The CFDA has evolved so much over time, to a fuller and fuller picture," said Perry from her media room. The designer opened up her pop-art-filled apartment for the fete—cue an exceptional East River view framed by Takashi Murakami statues, and inductee Adriano Goldschmied embracing Catherine Malandrino in the malachite glow of a Jeff Koons Diamond. "It has really broadened," she added, noting, in particular, the strong mix of jewelry designers making the cut this go-around. "I love Mark David—colorful Bakelite and diamonds!"
Much of the evening's buzz concerned this Monday night's announcement of the 2013 Fashion Fund winner. "I'm really liking that Public School," offered Dannijo's Danielle Snyder . "I admire their personalities and their collective aesthetic—it's a winning combination." To that, Maxwell Osborne —who runs Public School, one of ten labels up for the prize, with Dao-Yi Chow —said: "I'm definitely not going to have a speech prepared. I don't want to go into it with any expectation."
For a full list of new members, visit the CFDA's site here .
—Nick Remsen
Zegna Goes West
The debut of Ermenegildo Zegna's global store on Rodeo Drive was cause for celebration last night, bringing Stefano Pilati to L.A. in his first visit as head of design. Guests such as Jeremy Renner and Gerard Butler browsed the Peter Marino-designed tri-level space, which boasts 5,800 square feet dedicated to the brand's formalwear, sportswear, accessories, Zegna Sport, and Pilati's new Couture collection. "Being on this multilevel, it depicts very well the different collections," Zegna CEO Gildo Zegna said of Marino's design. "And having the Couture on the top floor, it enhances this new aspect of Zegna fashion by Pilati."
After the store opening, the likes of Edward Norton and Gavin Rossdale made their way to the converted gallery space JF Chen for a multimedia installation of Zegna's Spring campaign, including a video featuring Pilati reporting from the "EZ News" desk and an exhibition of photos shot by Inez and Vinoodh. "I am a fashion designer that designs for menswear," Pilati said of his new role. "Of my previous projects, this one is a bit more personal. I'm more comfortable, due to the fact that I'm more experienced. The way that I communicate with the structure and the people, and being Italian, accelerates the process," he reasoned. "And we've known each other for a long time."
Toward the end of the evening, Sharon Stone weighed in: "I think it's great that they have this great new designer who comes from YSL. That's a background that kind of epitomizes that comfortable chic, that ultimate élan."
—Alexis Brunswick
czwartek, 7 listopada 2013
Innovate or Die
Last night's WSJ. Magazine Innovator Awards drew many of fashion's most creative minds, at least one of whom admitted he was hoping to get a little inspiration from the other talents in the room. "There are some great artists and architects here tonight," Calvin Klein's Francisco Costa told Style.com. "No matter the craft, for me, innovation is about restlessness. It's about looking forward, looking further, never back."
The relationships between honorees and their presenters connected the worlds the ceremony was trying to bridge. Landscape architect Thomas Woltz , one of the forces behind New York's Hudson Yards development, was given the Design Innovator award by his longtime friend, the designer Thom Browne . Venture capitalist Joshua Kushner handed the Technology Innovator award to Nick D'Aloisio , who sold his Summly app to Yahoo, in March, for an estimated $30 million. And André Leon Talley presented Pat McGrath with the Fashion Innovator award for her numerous contributions to the beauty industry.
Pharrell Williams took the stage to introduce Daft Punk for their Entertainment Innovator award, saying, "I got the opportunity to work with these guys, which was amazing, because they really are robots." After playing a video acceptance speech as if they weren't able to make it, Daft Punk took the stage, escorted by their WSJ. co-cover star, Gisele Bündchen . The duo received their statues, gave a cool nod, and disappeared as quickly as they came. As for Bündchen, she said, "I never considered myself an innovator necessarily. I just try to live my life every day, every moment, to the best I can. Life is such a gift!"
Balmain's Olivier Rousteing agreed. "Tonight is why I love coming to New York. There are no boundaries, and the people here love what is really new. It's a big machine—you can really make your dreams come true here."
—Todd Plummer
środa, 6 listopada 2013
Tilda's Big Night
"She's not a fashion person. She's an actress and clothes look great on her," explained Karl Lagerfeld of his longtime friend, muse, and collaborator Tilda Swinton . "I've known her for twenty years, and what's surprising is that her personality hasn't been affected: She's always looked modern avant-garde. She's as modern today as she was twenty years ago."
Lagerfeld was speaking about Swinton from the entrance of MoMA's rose-lined tribute to the actress, an event that brought in the likes of David Bowie , Sofia Coppola , Jessica Biel , Wes Anderson, and Iman . It was a Chanel-sponsored party—with no shortage of KL creations (Karlie Kloss , in jet-black Alexander Wang, was one exception) and no skimping on praise for the honoree, who happened to be celebrating her 53rd birthday in a cream-and-pearl-white pantsuit straight from the label's new collection.
"It's my birthday, and they're throwing me a party!" exclaimed Swinton upon arrival, moments later. What could be better? The fete, complete with a performance by electro-pop sensation Lorde that gave way to an elegant dinner, culminated with a rose-pink cake for the strawberry-blond siren.
"She stands alone because of who she is," related Ralph Fiennes . "In the end, actors are who they are; what's inside them defines them. And I think we're all here tonight because we recognize that she has a unique quality—not only as a woman but as an actress, as an artist. She has something special."
—Ashley Simpson
Area Redux
"I'm leaving—it's reaching critical mass in there," Glenn O'Brien said as he made his way out of The Hole gallery on the Bowery last night. Indeed, the art and fashion sets had turned out in full force to relive the wild days of New York's iconic Area nightclub, which has been re-created as an art installation for the week. (The exhibit accompanies the new 368-page book Area: 1983-1987 by the club's co-owners Eric Goode and Jennifer Goode.)
Inside, guests such as Jeffrey Deitch —who helmed the art project along with Hole founder Kathy Grayson —Mario Sorrenti, and Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis discovered artwork made for the nightclub by the likes of Keith Haring, Andy Warhol, and Chuck Close. They also found a re-creation of those infamous unisex bathrooms (which also doubled as the bar).
"People would do drugs and have sex in those bathrooms, but to be honest, you didn't even really have to go in the bathroom to do that," said photographer Patrick McMullan , after pausing to check out an old portrait series of himself, Haring, and Jean-Michel Basquiat. "I sure hope no one tries to use the plumbing in these bathrooms, because it doesn't work," added Eric Goode . As for the naked performance artists running around the party, Goode said, "I don't know anything about those, I'm as surprised as you are."
—Kristin Tice Studeman
wtorek, 5 listopada 2013
Star Quality
"Accessories are the stars of my closet," Iman announced as she accepted her Hall of Fame award at last night’s 17th annual Accessories Council Excellence Awards. "Everything else is just supporting cast." The supermodel wasn't the only accessories enthusiast to step out for the occasion. Joan Collins was on hand to present Alexis Bittar with the Brand of the Year award. "I think if you saw Dynasty, you saw that I wore some pretty marvelous jewelry," she began. "Tonight it gives me enormous pleasure to present Alexis with his award—from one Alexis to another."
This year's ACE Awards saw the addition of several new categories, including the Legacy award for Frye—it being the 150th anniversary of the company—and the Omni-Channel Retailer award for Nordstrom. Dannijo's Danielle Snyder presented Leandra "Man Repeller" Medine with the inaugural Digital Influencer award. The awards themselves were Swarovski box clutches designed by Leiber, and back at their dinner table, Snyder and Medine played with the box. "It's so shiny, you can use it like a mirror!" Snyder exclaimed.
The spirit of friendship between presenters and honorees gave the ceremony a nice sense of intimacy, no easy feat for a grand affair at Cipriani 42nd Street. Jason Wu presented his longtime friend and collaborator Kate Young with her Influencer award, saying, "She's prevented me from making a fool of myself on many occasions. Behind every great designer—or in my case, OK designer—there is an even greater stylist." Kate Lanphear , who said that Phillip Lim was the first designer she befriended as a small-town girl moving to New York, gave Lim his award for ACE Designer of the Year. "Just look at her," Lim told Style.com. "Kate's the ultimate accessory. She's always styled head to toe, and she always does it right."
—Todd Plummer
poniedziałek, 4 listopada 2013
Goodfellas
Two years ago, Leonardo DiCaprio hosted the Los Angeles County Museum of Art's inaugural Art + Film gala. He was back in action at the museum on Saturday night, only this time the annual benefit was honoring his frequent collaborator (and director of their upcoming release, The Wolf of Wall Street) Martin Scorsese and British artist David Hockney . Presented by Gucci and co-chaired by Eva Chow , the evening brought out a glittering guest list including Robert Downey Jr. , Jake Gyllenhaal , Drew Barrymore , and Salma Hayek . James Franco , who is the face of Gucci's Made to Measure campaign, arrived arm in arm with the house's creative director, Frida Giannini . The evening raised $4.1 million for LACMA.
Before sitting down for dinner and a performance by Sting , Amber Valletta caught up with Amy Adams , and Isla Fisher and Sacha Baron Cohen exchanged notes with John C. Reilly . On view was David Hockney: Seven Yorkshire Landscape Videos, 2011, and Agnès Varda in Californialand. The evening also celebrated the museum's new collaboration with Scorsese's Film Foundation to preserve four films by Varda, an 85-year-old French filmmaker. "I've heard from so many people from New York and Europe say that L.A. is where art is right now," designer Jenni Kayne remarked, surveying the scene. "Amazing artists are moving here, and it's contributing to this new culture."
Still, Hollywood will always rule L.A., and inevitably talk turned to Scorsese's most memorable movies. Josh Duhamel told Style.com, "The list goes on and on." But Zoe Saldana had a very specific Scorsese scene in mind. "It was in Taxi Driver, when Robert De Niro's sitting in the back of the taxicab. I remember watching that when I was a little girl and being completely petrified."
—Alexis Brunswick
piątek, 1 listopada 2013
The Conjuring
Leave it to designers Mara Hoffman and Pamela Love to find Halloween zen. At their joint bash at the Roof at the Jane Hotel last night, both arrived costumed as plumaged unicorns—Hoffman the Yin (in optic white) to Love's Yang (in all black, with bronze highlights). "Pam and I were in a cab, but there was so much traffic, so we got on the L train," said Hoffman. "And literally, sharing the subway on Halloween—there's a kind of oneness that happens. Everyone enjoys everyone else; that's so rare in this city!" Such feel-good sentiment carried over to their fete, as guests mingled in the Jane's circular parapet under a soundtrack provided by Alix Browne and Gillian Sagansky, sometimes testing the terrace to take in the view (Manhattan's weather last night was wildly indecisive). One partygoer had exactingly re-created Look 7 from Prada's Spring '14 ready-to-wear show—glittering bra top and printed visage included. Both Hoffman and Love gave their immediate approval.
The evening proceeded—as many often do—to the Standard's Top of the Standard for a Mirror, Mirror: Who's the Fairest?-themed soirée, hosted by the hotel and V magazine. There, Dean and Dan Caten (bloodied and tuxedoed Mickey Mice) danced alongside Dree Hemingway (a Chanel-toting skeleton), Marc Jacobs (a camo-wearing raver), Italo Zucchelli (almost unrecognizable beneath his fishnet mask), the Restoin-Roitfeld progeny, and, briefly, a meta Daphne Guinness garbed simply in a floor-length cape. Dan went so far as to climb atop the bar in his teetering heels. Bryan Grey-Yambao, in considerably more sensible Oscar de la Renta sandals, recalled: "My favorite Halloween was when I borrowed my grandmother's Alaïa to be Cher from Clueless. I was 14."
It was well after midnight when model Tilda Lindstam was spotted on the street. Dressed as Jesus, she said, "Yes. Even he gets tired."
—Nick Remsen
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